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Herbie Balaban was born in Chicago on February 24, 1930, son of Max Balaban, theatre impresario and Dena Sackanoff, operatic soprano. Early family life for Herbie was to be full of both opportunity and loss. His father passed away in 1933. His mother took him and a sister to Europe to pursue her singing career. The Balaban family moved about Europe, disrupting any possibility of a traditional education but giving the children exposure to languages, art and a society that would never have been available in Chicago. In the fall of 1934 a German school report read “It is not easy to sum Herbert up. He has a strong personality and obviously has not quite settled down yet. He is a boy with much promise”. He never changed; he was always that same boy.Hitler’s rise in Europe prompted the Balabans return to the States and they ultimately settled in St. Louis. Herbie kept a life long love for European style and a fascination for French cuisine. The excitement and experimentation of the 60's were made for Herbie. He purchased a building in the Central West End at the corner of Euclid and McPherson, the current Herbie’s building. The neighborhood fascinated him; it was an eclectic mix of ages, occupations, and outlooks. Perfect. He opened a boutique, called it the Gypsy Cowboy and started selling Hippie apparel to Rock Stars and wannabes.
By the early 1970's Hippie Fringe was even being sold in department stores, the styles were changing and Herbie was restless. He still owned the Herbie’s building and his interest in French food and food preparation was growing. He was experimenting with dishes, trying to recreate some of the specialties that he so enjoyed when in France. He had a new partner, Adalaide, who would later become Mrs. Balaban and preside over the kitchen.Café Balaban opened in 1972, with a small bar and fewer than fifty seats in the dining room. It served a selection of crèpes, two soups, two salads and French pastries. (The pastries were bought from Andre’s in Clayton.) The menu was not ambitious but Herbie was. He loved the neighborhood, he loved the business and he loved the people. He never tired and never gave anything but his best.
The Café was a tremendous success. Herbie was a great host; he treated everyone like they were the guest of honor at a party he had planned just for them. The restaurant grew to fill the entire first floor of the Herbie’s building. It was always under construction; when there wasn’t any more room inside Herbie built the sidewalk café. The sidewalk café was modeled after one that he had admired in France. The French café had a small pewter bar; Herbie did not rest until he found another antique pewter bar and had it shipped to St. Louis and installed in the café. The restaurant and the café were decorated with his personal collection of original antique posters, mostly French. Some of the posters remain in the restaurant today.Herbie loved this space, he would wish you well.
